We had a nice gentle chilled-out week with Rob. After he left, we spent a couple of nights in Aegina doing domestic things like washing and shopping then set off for pastures new down the eastern side of the Peloponnese. We watched a christening on the tiny island chapel in Russian Bay and actually managed to get into Idra harbour for a night unscathed. The Journey really started at the first place we hadn't visited before which was Nisos Dhokos.
This a small uninhabited island between Idra and Spetses. On the North side it has a large bay with several coves which between them give shelter from most winds. We initially tried the NorthWest cove which is tiny, very pretty, very sheltered, excellent holding and full of wasps. Very unfortunate the last bit as we took all the trouble to anchor, put a line assure, put the boat to bed and sit down when suddenly they seemed to find us. For the next half hour we were mobbed - burning coffee made only a small difference and in the end we cut our losses and wend around the main bay tucked under the north west headland. We spent a lovely tranquil day anchored on turquoise sand with a couple of yachts and a few distant gin palaces for company.
Next day, we headed for Spetses where we managed to get into the inner harbour which has excellent shelter and a rather laid back attendant who only turns up at 10.30 and 5.30. The charge was €20 including free water and electricity – but you only get you're 'free' water when she is there to turn it on. Makes for a rather late start! There was no wifi or Vodafone connection so we walked into the old town (paradoxically by the new harbour). The whole place was a bit run down and very surly. They either have too many or too few tourists – possibly both. We wanted to eat and download at the same time but not one of the restaurants had wifi. In the end, we drank a couple of very expensive beers at a waterside cafe which did have WiFi. We weren't sorry to leave in the morning particularly after a run-in with the worst sort of up-himself Englishman – almost certainly a banker and most certainly a *anker.
A short hop under spinnaker put us into Porto Heli a very different prospect. A superb anchorage with a huge friendly supermarket and the Neilson base (sadly now closing) which welcomed yachtsmen except at weekends.
We stayed there for a couple of days hunkering down from the first adverse weather of the season – and what weather it was! The biggest thunderstorm I've ever seen. The sky was repeatedly covered by huge bursts of horizontal forked lightening and the sheet lightning in the clouds just never stopped so the whole lagoon was bathed in a flickering blue light. And then the hail started. For 15 minutes we were pelted by golfball sized stones making a frightening din as they hit the hatches. I was convinced the solar panel would be shattered but amazingly it survived unscathed.
Next day we flew across the Argolic Gulf to Kiparissi. There was a nasty swell which managed to work its way even up into the north quay so we had a rather bouncy night rubbing fenders with the flotilla boats that came in either side of us.
Knowing that some seriously strong winds were due in a couple of days we asked the flotilla leader whether we would be best off in Yerakas or Monemvasia. He recommended the former, tucked in side-to on the old hydrofoil quay. So that's where we went.
The village is lovely – very small and sleepy with friendly people who obviously see very few visitors or yachtsmen. There are two tavernas, an ouzerie and a very very small shop. We went for a walk above the village to the ancient Acropolis. Fantastic views overlooking the village.
There's a nasty little swell and strong winds pushing us onto the quay
but we had plenty of time to prepare so Rosa is tucked up safely in a
spiders-web of lines and, so far, seems quite safe. The forecast
predicts at least 4 more days so it is going to be a long wait.
As soon as we can, we will round the headland to Monemvasia, stock up, and then head for Crete – either to Gramvousa or straight to Spinalonga.
Well, that was the plan.....During Sunday and Monday the weather got worse and a heavier and heavier swell worked its way into the harbour. I did quite a bit of re-arranging of lines on Sunday night and then got a fitful but safe nights sleep. Monday was OK but it got worse towards evening and very nasty indeed after darkness. We added several more warps to the cats cradle and tightened lines in all directions but nothing helped much. I decided to stay up to keep an eye on things while L dozed on the sofa fully clothed and ready to spring into action. Very lucky we did! At midnight two stern lines snapped and buckled the starboard cleat. Waves were breaking 5 meters in front of us and Rosa was diving down the slope towards them every few minutes. Fenders were grinding against the quay and threatening to burst. We were in imminent danger of serious damage or even shipwreck.
We had to get Hans and Monika (a lovely Austrian couple on the other boat on the quay) out of bed and they helped us cast off the lines and with heart in mouth I managed to get Rosa's head around enough to get off the quay. Thank heavens for the bow thruster! We slid slowly up the very shallow channel in pitch dark until we got to the mouth of the lake and dropped the anchor. We were safe! No more waves and just a bit of wind to contend with.
We've now changed plans and have bashed through the waves and force 6 winds yesterday (Wednesday) back to Porto Heli. From here we will probably wait for a weather window and then do a two day passage straight to Spinalonga in Crete.
More in the next thrilling instalment.
