Lesvos is a really special place. We will be back another time to explore it further.
We made landfall at Apotheke which is a tiny village near the mouth of the Gulf of Killini. There is nothing much there except peace quiet and one vey low-key taverna catering to a few locals. The anchorage is excellent and we just lazed there for a day.
Our next stop was Plomari. This is a pretty little town with a Turkish flavor. The only mooring option is stern to on the town quay. This seemed well sheltered and the anchor held well. I wouldn't like to trust the boat on her own there though. L went shopping and amazingly heard a screetch and there was a Little Owl on a telegraph pole. We had an excellent meal in the Taverna right on the quay and then wandered round town to find an ice cream. The port police were the most officious I have seen in Greece - although nice enough with it. They checked my passport - presumably looking for an unclosed Turkish Visa and demanded a receipt from my previous port of call.
After Plomarion, we went round to Mitilini, the capital. This is a bustling little town with excellent shopping - mostly in the bazaar-like backstreets at the end of the harbor. We stayed in the Marina which is now fully functional - if more than a little empty. We could have stayed side-to in the inner harbor but since the marina was only €19 for our 10.6M boat, and is quiet and has lazy lines, we thought it was safer to stay there as we intended to hire a car the next day to be proper tourists.
We spent the whole day seeing the Eastern half of the island. First stop was Agiasos - a lovely mountain village full of winding streets, friendly people and very few tourists. We were even given bread, wine and Tahini by three lovely women in honor of 30 days of risen Christ! The monastery and especially it's church is impressive but unfortunately, the museum was shut.
Next stop was the hot springs at Polychnitos where we wallowed in toasty warm healing water in an ancient bathhouse.Very relaxing! The springs themselves come out at over 80 degrees C. You can wander around to you hearts content - no fences, no Nany State - if you want to boil your head, you can!
After lunch of fresh sardines (local specialty) at Scala Killini we started to wend our way back. Suddenly we came upon a stork nest - complete with mum and baby - on a chimney. And then blow be down, in quick succession came upon a flock of Flamingos and then a family of Avocets. Twitcher Heaven! Finally after a stop at Liddle (yuk) we fueled-up from the local garage and finished off a perfect day with a quick hand of Bridge.
After Mitilini, we headed for Mythimna. The harbor was chokka so we anchored off and had a rather rolley night serenaded by disco music until dawn. The place actually looks really nice and the disco would be easy to avoid so it will repay a visit another time. Unfortunately, Tony and Anne were on a bit of a mission to get to Sigri where we are to part the ways - they going back south to Crete and we going on North to Limnos - so we didn't have the chance to go ashore.
Had a lovely gentle sail along the North coast to Sigri. Its a very small place and looks distinctly out in the wilds. The huge beach is empty but buoyed off for swimmers and the quay is just a concrete lump. We opted to anchor but only with considerable difficulty. There is a lot of weed and a lot of the patches that look like sand are actually flat rocks. The Anchor bit at the fourth attempt. After an excellent final meal and another good game, we said our goodbyes and after a good calm night, slipped away at first light on the 11 hour passage to Limnos.
We made landfall at Apotheke which is a tiny village near the mouth of the Gulf of Killini. There is nothing much there except peace quiet and one vey low-key taverna catering to a few locals. The anchorage is excellent and we just lazed there for a day.
Our next stop was Plomari. This is a pretty little town with a Turkish flavor. The only mooring option is stern to on the town quay. This seemed well sheltered and the anchor held well. I wouldn't like to trust the boat on her own there though. L went shopping and amazingly heard a screetch and there was a Little Owl on a telegraph pole. We had an excellent meal in the Taverna right on the quay and then wandered round town to find an ice cream. The port police were the most officious I have seen in Greece - although nice enough with it. They checked my passport - presumably looking for an unclosed Turkish Visa and demanded a receipt from my previous port of call.
After Plomarion, we went round to Mitilini, the capital. This is a bustling little town with excellent shopping - mostly in the bazaar-like backstreets at the end of the harbor. We stayed in the Marina which is now fully functional - if more than a little empty. We could have stayed side-to in the inner harbor but since the marina was only €19 for our 10.6M boat, and is quiet and has lazy lines, we thought it was safer to stay there as we intended to hire a car the next day to be proper tourists.
We spent the whole day seeing the Eastern half of the island. First stop was Agiasos - a lovely mountain village full of winding streets, friendly people and very few tourists. We were even given bread, wine and Tahini by three lovely women in honor of 30 days of risen Christ! The monastery and especially it's church is impressive but unfortunately, the museum was shut.
Next stop was the hot springs at Polychnitos where we wallowed in toasty warm healing water in an ancient bathhouse.Very relaxing! The springs themselves come out at over 80 degrees C. You can wander around to you hearts content - no fences, no Nany State - if you want to boil your head, you can!
After lunch of fresh sardines (local specialty) at Scala Killini we started to wend our way back. Suddenly we came upon a stork nest - complete with mum and baby - on a chimney. And then blow be down, in quick succession came upon a flock of Flamingos and then a family of Avocets. Twitcher Heaven! Finally after a stop at Liddle (yuk) we fueled-up from the local garage and finished off a perfect day with a quick hand of Bridge.
After Mitilini, we headed for Mythimna. The harbor was chokka so we anchored off and had a rather rolley night serenaded by disco music until dawn. The place actually looks really nice and the disco would be easy to avoid so it will repay a visit another time. Unfortunately, Tony and Anne were on a bit of a mission to get to Sigri where we are to part the ways - they going back south to Crete and we going on North to Limnos - so we didn't have the chance to go ashore.
Had a lovely gentle sail along the North coast to Sigri. Its a very small place and looks distinctly out in the wilds. The huge beach is empty but buoyed off for swimmers and the quay is just a concrete lump. We opted to anchor but only with considerable difficulty. There is a lot of weed and a lot of the patches that look like sand are actually flat rocks. The Anchor bit at the fourth attempt. After an excellent final meal and another good game, we said our goodbyes and after a good calm night, slipped away at first light on the 11 hour passage to Limnos.
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