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Monday, July 4, 2011

Thasos

From 25 miles away to the East, all you can see is strange white hills on the horizon. It's only when you get a lot closer and the rest of the island looms out of the haze that you realise they are relatively small. Closer still, and with the aid of binoculars, they suddenly resolve into enormous marble quarries. Apparently, the highest quality marble has been quarried here for 3000 years and shipped over most of the Eastern Mediterranean.
We made landfall at Gramvoussa - a lovely secluded little bay with good holding on sand open to the South and East. We just chilled for a couple of days. During the last night an Easterly blew up during the night blowing in a swell and giving us a rather uncomfortable few hours. Nothing dangerous though.
We decided to go clockwise round Thasos to the main town. Took us 3 days. We looked at Aliki but there was too much grockle and we moved on. We later heard that we missed a treat as it is lovely. Guess we'll just have to live with the disappointment :-) We went on to a bay on the South West tip - just north of the point and had a lovely evening swimming and eating. There was a reather strange beach bar in the trees which went on all night but was very quiet and with rather cool sort of music - sort of hippy.

Next stop was Thasos Town. This is a pretty little place with good provisions - including Launderette with free water & electricity on the quay. Apparently it is scheduled to be completed next year and then will be charged for. The Port police showed no interest in us. The harbour is excellent & safe harbour with masses of space. No sign of Hydrofoils and all the ferries dock outside so no wash.
We met Alain & Anne on Odyssey - one of 3 French boats. There was also 1 German yacht, our yacht plus 5 or 6 Motor boats (all Greek).

The ancient harbour was the naval harbour in classical times. Apparently the new one is built where the ancient civilian port was located. No sign now. The ancient harbour is very well preserved. It is full of fishng boats though, and the ancient walls are just below the surface so even if a yacht could find a space, it would have to take a line ashore. Nightmare!
There is a lovely walk ashore up to the ancient amphitheatre. It's well preserved and still in use. The main gate is locked but everyone goes through a hole in the fence 50 yards above it. Great place to watch the sun set.
Large parts of the ancient city are still there so the old town is fascinating to walk around.
The museum is to die for. One of the best we have seen in Greece. The collection is excellent & well presented but the thing that stands out is the huge effort that has been put into explaining the context and history - in Greek, English and French.
After the museum, we walked east along the shore, past the grockle beaches to the point. There is a very nice, classy little taverna there with good service, reasonable prices, a superb location and it offers free beach chairs to customers

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