The Northern Sporades

Our original intention was to hang around here for 6-8 weeks so that L could go back to the UK and then K and family could join us. Plans changed however - K will come to the Saronic and connections to and from Athens for L turned into a nightmare. So we decided to cut the visit very short and head down the Evia channel to the Saronic. Nevertheless, we spent an excellent couple of weeks there and will definitely be back.

We made landfall on Kira Panagia in Ormos Planitis. The bay is a wonderful anchorage - completely enclosed, huge, reasonable depths everywhere and gorgeous turquoise water with excellent sand for the anchor to bite into. We stayed two days just relaxing and enjoying the peace. On the way round to Alonisos, we stopped for lunch in the other anchorage (O. Kira Panagia) and found it to be more crowded but if anything even more charming.


Next stop was Nissos Peristeri on the south of which are a couple of useful bays - O. Peristera & O. Xero. We stopped for the night in O.Peristera which was completely deserted other than rather a lot of yachts moored with long lines ashore all around the bay. Usually, putting a line ashore is a nightmare for us with just two on board. L isn't confident enough to handle the boat under power in a tight space with wind blowing so I have to be at the helm. That leaves L to row ashore dragging a heavy line, and get it securely round something while I'm desperately trying to keep control of the boat - a job she hates with a passion. We developed a neat new technique this time. We drop the anchor and motor back till the keel grounds. Lift it a couple of feet and motor back again till it grounds again. Then drop it hard. There we are well fixed to the bottom and we can do everything else at our leisure. Finally we pull forward loosening the line a bit so we are floating properly. Of course we couldn't do this on rock for obvious reasons.  By now we needed water and supplies so decided to go to Alonisos next but first checked out O. Xero To our surprise it was lovely and nearly empty. It's not as well sheltered as O.Peristera but in calm weather or Northerlies would be great.

Steni Vala on Alonisos is a gem. The whole valley is owned by one family who have established tavernas, apartments and supermarkets but all low key and with no sense of tourist hassle. The tavernas are good and reasonably priced, the people are friendly and the supermarkets, while small, are surprisingly well stocked. Best of all for the Sporades, water fill the tanks and hot showers are free as long as you patronise the tavernas or supermarkets.

Next stop was Patriti - the capital town and main ferry port on Alonisos. A pleasant little town with a good safe harbour. The ferries cause less mayhem than we expected. We stopped and walked around for a couple of hours and consulted a travel agent on how to get L to Athens on 12th August. That's when we found that it was going to be impossible for her to catch her flight without a huge amount of hassle and an overnight stay in Athens. We decided instead to head for the Saronic.

We decamped to an open bay on the south (O. Stafoli). It's a picturesque place but the best spots for anchoring are taken up by underwater cables or the huge buoyed off swimming area. The headland seems to be occupied by large up-market hotels who floodlight the anchorage presumably to give their guests something pretty to look at. I hate that! I hope they enjoyed my pretty moon!




Next stop was Skopelos (gradually getting more into grockle land as we went). Skopelos town harbour is huge with loads of good space. The pilot says it gets swell but we didn't see any sign. The frequent ferries create some heavy wash - particularly the vodafone one - but nothing dangerous. The water man tries to rip people off but can easily be beaten down. We got 2 days of water and electricity for €6.00. L did a huge wash which well justified the cost.
The old town is absolutely charming with ancient winding streets, too narrow for cars, snaking up the contours. Care needs to be taken down by the ferry quay where the shops are - we got taken for €8.00 for two beers! We were so shocked we didn't even protest! Welcome to tourist Greece! On the western side of Skopelos is O. Panormou - a great hurricane hole. With highish winds forecast we tucked in there using our neat trick with line ashore again. We met a lovely couple (Peter & Zelda) on a motor boat called Decanter and shared a sun-downer or two watching (and ocassionally helping with) the antics of the charter boats trying to moor. Peter & Zelda were staying put for a few days and said we could use their mooring on Skiathos.

We hadn't been looking forward to the crowding, Tourist development and difficult moorings on Skiathos so we were grateful for the offer. We spent a safe afternoon and evening there buffeted by the extensive water sports going on around us. Everything stopped at dusk however and we had a quiet night and an early start to our next leg - the Evia channel down to the Saronic Gulf and Athens.